Roaming South America

Sicuani, Perú: Heavy History, Light Tourism

May 2, 2026

Sicuani, Perú — population about 58,000. Elevation: 3,549 meters (11,643 ft). The area has been inhabited since Inca times. Later, Spanish conquistadors took control and incorporated it into the colonial system. The climate here is on the cold side. During the dry season, nighttime temperatures often drop below freezing.

A Tale of Two Túpacs

In 1780, Túpac Amaru II, who lived in the nearby town of Tinta, started a rebellion against Spanish colonial rule. Now comes the curveball: Mateo Pumacahua, from the town of Chinchero in the same region as Sicuani, fought with the Spanish against Túpac Amaru II. Túpac Amaru II was eventually captured and, in May 1781, executed in Cusco. But that wasn't the end of the rebellion. Túpac Amaru II’s cousin, Diego Cristóbal Túpac Amaru, took over leadership. Fighting continued in the Sicuani–Tinta–Canas region. Eventually, with the rebels struggling, Diego Cristóbal negotiated an armistice. He agreed to end the rebellion, and the Spanish promised pardons. But the Spaniards broke their promise, did not deliver the pardons, and executed Diego Cristóbal Túpac Amaru in 1783 in Cusco. So, in the 1780s, Mateo Pumacahua was an Indigenous Peruvian fighting with the Spanish against other Peruvians. Nice guy.

Now, 34 years later, Mateo Pumacahua changes his mind. By this time, he was in his 70s, but still highly respected. So what does he do? He leads a rebellion against Spain. This became known as the Rebellion of 1814. Rebels in Cusco actually overthrew the Spanish authorities, and Pumacahua became the leader of the uprising. Rebel forces quickly gained control of much of southern Perú. They advanced toward Arequipa, Puno, and Upper Perú (modern Bolivia). Then he overreached. He split his forces, which led to poor communication between the different groups. The Spanish regrouped and counterattacked, defeating the rebel forces one by one. On March 11, 1815, near modern-day Puno, rebel troops were crushed at the Battle of Umachiri. Pumacahua tried to flee but was captured. He was taken to Sicuani, and on March 18, 1815, he was hanged and then dismembered in the Plaza de Armas here in Sicuani.

Túpac Amaru II was similarly executed in Cusco. At that time, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Spanish colonial authorities often hanged and dismembered rebel leaders. Body parts were sometimes displayed in public plazas as a warning, and in some cases sent to other towns as intimidation.
Reference: Wikipedia

A lot of History, but not much else

So, other than the history, is there anything here to see? To do? Honestly, not much. The town is clean, with very little litter in the streets. They are slowly building a riverside park that appears to stretch nearly the length of the city. They're also building a new bus terminal. It might be close to finished. There were two buses there when I walked past, but they didn’t appear to actually be open. There’s nothing particularly special to see in town. Most of the buildings appear to be older, likely 19th- and 20th-century construction. Oh, and they're building a new bridge over the river. How exciting is that?

About that bridge, while walking through town, I came across construction for a new bridge. A metal fence blocked the area, but there was an opening, so I stepped inside and took a few photos of the work. A security guard noticed me and walked over. Instead of chasing me out, we ended up chatting for a few minutes. At one point, he smiled and said, "We have nothing in Sicuani for tourists." Then he laughed. He wasn’t wrong.

Maybe that will change. The city is slowly building a riverside malecón/park that appears as though it will eventually stretch the full length of the river passing through town. If they ever finish it, Sicuani might finally have something that encourages travelers to stop for more than just lunch. Until then, it remains mostly a place you pass through on the way somewhere else.